froglube in cold weather

[matt2636]

im pretty new to froglube (only been using it 2 months now) and im wondering if anyone has used it in cold weather? i froze 2 pistols in my freezer and one of the pistols it actually froze the action and the other one made it act really sluggish. that was using the paste. any input from anyone who has used it cold or really really really cold weather?

 

[skidmark]

If you are going to be outside in freezing/sub-freezing weather long enough for your handgun to get to that point, there are cold-wealer greases you should be using instead of a general-purpose lubricant. The biggest difficulty I see you running into is being able to purchase anything in small quantities - lots of deals showing up for 20-pound cans, but not so much in 2-ounce tubes (which, BTW, might be a lifetime supply).

One option you might try is finding a shop that deals in off-roading/snowmobiles/commercial earthmoving (you get the idea) that carries/uses what you are looking for (you did a search for what you wanted and then called around to see who uses it, right?) and showing up with a small container and asking if you can buy some. You might even get lucky and be given some at no cost.

stay safe.

 

[WalkingWolf]

Go to any truck stop and purchase a pound can of grease, it will last forever. You only need a tad of grease, if you use grease on guns. I have never had a gun freeze up using gun oil, even in sub zero temperatures.

 

[SFCRetired]

I've used CLP throughout my military career and use it now on my firearms. Even in the coldest weather that Germany threw at us, we never had a malfunction or sluggish action because of lubricant. And that was on the notoriously, for those years, cranky M16. I've also found that the trick is not so much which lubricant you use, but how much and where. That is something that, as far as I can tell, can only be found out through experimentation.

Just my zwei pfennig worth.

 

[matt2636]

I've used CLP throughout my military career and use it now on my firearms. Even in the coldest weather that Germany threw at us, we never had a malfunction or sluggish action because of lubricant. And that was on the notoriously, for those years, cranky M16. I've also found that the trick is not so much which lubricant you use, but how much and where. That is something that, as far as I can tell, can only be found out through experimentation.

Just my zwei pfennig worth.

yeah im an ole clp user myself. i like this froglube cause it not a danger to you or family members and it does clean up well. when i stuck that old 1911 in the freezer just for the fun of it it was froze up. so i tried my kimber and that didnt freeze up but it acted pretty sluggish. i think on froglubes sight it says it rated to -40 so i dont know. maybe the freezer wasnt a honest test.

 

[WalkingWolf]

yeah im an ole clp user myself. i like this froglube cause it not a danger to you or family members and it does clean up well. when i stuck that old 1911 in the freezer just for the fun of it it was froze up. so i tried my kimber and that didnt freeze up but it acted pretty sluggish. i think on froglubes sight it says it rated to -40 so i dont know. maybe the freezer wasnt a honest test.

Most refrigerator freezers get no where near zero, let alone below. My chest freezer is about ten below. I don't know what you are using, but I have been in temps twenty below, and my firearm was not sluggish or froze up. I exchanged gunfire with a suspect with a model 28 in -22F and without a problem, other than bullets whizzing. Maybe the oils have changed in thirty years.

I do not use anything fancy, just 3 in 1 oil, what I have used for most everything from ball gloves to guns. Some of my guns non moving parts are Johnson paste waxed because they are black powder. Black powder is less gummy with natural wax. In winter a light coat of rape seed oil is all that is needed for black powder moving parts.

I suspect your problem maybe using too much of a good thing.

 

[Freedom1Man]

AMSOIL, Schaeffer Oil, Mobil1, Royal Purple, etc

1 quart of a top of the line synthetic motor oil will do the trick use the 0-<=30 weight though.

They work as all season lubes.

For some of the higher pressure points I sometimes use a synthetic base molylube/molygrease. Use sparingly.

---- Edit

Clarification don't use the whole quart on a firearm. The quart should last you for years of lubrication unless you're a high volume gunsmith, gun collector, or something like that.

I prefer to use a cleaning patch, cotton tipped stick, and/or syringes to help apply the oils at the correct level.

 

[matt2636]

yeah i usually use mobil 1. i thought i would try something new and see how it works and get opinions from people who have used it longer than 2 months.

 

[davidmcbeth]

I was having issues with magazines operating properly in the cold weather ... my AR mags just didn't work well with my larger mags ... my 10 rd mags worked flawlessly .. and I have used them all in warm weather w/o issues before ...

 

[Firehand]

For frame & slide rails, I wound up going to Lubriplate SFL-0 grease; it's light, and I haven't noticed any sluggishness to operation in cold weather. It also stays in place nicely in hot weather, like the past two summers with 105-110 highs.
Only place I know of to get it is from Lubriplate, for a 14oz. can. Which'll last a LONG time.

Magazines, I only use some type of dry lube. For quite a while I've been using Eezox for that and as a protectant; goes on wet and dries to a film.

 

[WalkingWolf]

For frame & slide rails, I wound up going to Lubriplate SFL-0 grease; it's light, and I haven't noticed any sluggishness to operation in cold weather. It also stays in place nicely in hot weather, like the past two summers with 105-110 highs.
Only place I know of to get it is from Lubriplate, for a 14oz. can. Which'll last a LONG time.

Magazines, I only use some type of dry lube. For quite a while I've been using Eezox for that and as a protectant; goes on wet and dries to a film.

I wax my magazines with Johnson's paste wax, but then I polish my followers until they have a mirror finish, they will function completely dry. The wax is only to thwart corrosion. 1911 mags since I can't take them apart just light oil and then let them dry, they really need no lube other than to fight corrosion.

 

[davidmcbeth]

I wax my magazines with Johnson's paste wax, but then I polish my followers until they have a mirror finish, they will function completely dry. The wax is only to thwart corrosion. 1911 mags since I can't take them apart just light oil and then let them dry, they really need no lube other than to fight corrosion.

I had issues with my large 50 cal rds in my AR mags ... just having them move up the mag and feed... very strange, never had that happen before but it was 20°F out...no problem with movement of mags in and out of guns, just the 50 cal rds were "sluggish" with the 30 rd ar15 mag

 

[WalkingWolf]

I had issues with my large 50 cal rds in my AR mags ... just having them move up the mag and feed... very strange, never had that happen before but it was 20°F out...no problem with movement of mags in and out of guns, just the 50 cal rds were "sluggish" with the 30 rd ar15 mag

I guess it's possible the cold is affecting the temper on the springs~have you tried running them clean and dry when it is cold. Lube is actually a bad thing for mags in gritty environments.

 

[davidmcbeth]

I guess it's possible the cold is affecting the temper on the springs~have you tried running them clean and dry when it is cold. Lube is actually a bad thing for mags in gritty environments.

I agree ... lube in mags bad. Unfortunately, I did not have a force gauge to measure the spring constant at the range (who would even think of bring one, right). I agree, the spring's "spring constant" must have changed .. lucky I found out at the range v. real life.

The 50 cal rounds are much heavier than the 223 that the mag is actually designed to accommodate so that is likely the reason.

Looks like I should stock up on more 10 rd 223/AR - 5 rd/.50 cal mags ... if I'm shooting a a person behind some cover or concealment, the .50 cal is the way to go ... most ballistic shields cannot withstand the 50 cal ...

I have several AR platformed rifles .. one I have a scope, one I have a night vision scope, one I have in .50 cal, one with iron sights. So depending on the situation, I can choose w/o the need for putzing around a rifle properly zeroed in for a particular set of environmental conditions for immediate use.

If short range (300 yrd or less) the .50 cal AR has advantages ..... of course my AK is a nice one to have too but it will not stop or penetrate a vehicle as quickly or as well as the .50 cal. The AK works flawlessly though...never had a round not go where I was pointing it at..

Decisions decisions ...

 

[Freedom1Man]

Magazines, I only use some type of dry lube. For quite a while I've been using Eezox for that and as a protectant; goes on wet and dries to a film.

Have you ever tried Power Blaster dry lube on your mags? If so what are your thoughts?

 

[Michigander]

If it rotates a bit or needs rust protection I use mobil one oil. If it slides or otherwise is a high friction part, I use mobil one grease. My only gun which has ever jammed on me due to the cold is my FAL, and even it works great with that combo.

 

[WalkingWolf]

I use no grease on my smokeless guns, and very very very little oil, and natural wax. I have no problems with them working. When I perform maintenaince I very lightly oil moving parts and then wipe them completely dry. The idea is to have just enough oil get in the pores to prevent rust. My guns function fine dry.

My black powder revolvers get a touch of Crisco on the cylinder pin, and a touch over the bullet. The rest of the gun is treated like a smokeless, light oil, and natural wax. Oil and grease attract grit, grit makes the gun fail when needed.

 

[Michigander]

Oil and grease attract grit, grit makes the gun fail when needed.

After more than 5 years of toting around a P220 which can and does fail when it gets too dirty or too dry, I can say I disagree strongly. Yes, a thin film of rust inhibitor of whatever variety is all it takes externally, but internally the components are generally shielded from this or that obstruction anyway. And even when it does get dirty, if it's very well lubricated it tends to still be very reliable.

If you are running a roosky design or a glock, or most any modern exceptionally reliable striker fired gun, your minimalistic methodology will likely serve you well. For others, no.

 

[WalkingWolf]

After more than 5 years of toting around a P220 which can and does fail when it gets too dirty or too dry, I can say I disagree strongly. Yes, a thin film of rust inhibitor of whatever variety is all it takes externally, but internally the components are generally shielded from this or that obstruction anyway. And even when it does get dirty, if it's very well lubricated it tends to still be very reliable.

If you are running a roosky design or a glock, or most any modern exceptionally reliable striker fired gun, your minimalistic methodology will likely serve you well. For others, no.

I have been shooting black powder out of black powder revolvers and lever action for 40 years. Same for 1911's as also some time spent with military semi auto rifles. Guns are designed to operate dry, and sandy grease is harmful, as well as not conducive to smooth operation. My m-16 functioned flawlessly in field, but I was not in the middle east either. I wonder how many GI's put automotive oil or grease on their m-4 that had problems in Iraq or Afghanistan. Except for FAW firearms do not function fast enough for metal galling from heat. Steal on steal can function just fine with light or no oil.

 

[Michigander]

Steal on steal can function just fine with light or no oil.

Maybe if it's a loose fit. Many guns these days are not.

Here is what Larry Vickers has to say on the matter. http://vickerstactical.com/tactical-tips/weapon-lubrication/