BlondieLocks
New member
I’ve never owned a brand new firearm! They’ve all been passed down or gifted, so I am finally getting a Kimber Stainless Target II 1911 .45 and I’m wondering what you do, if anything, to break it in?
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Is there a “proper” way to break in a new gun?
- Thread starter BlondieLocks
- Start date
color of law
Accomplished Advocate
That question is like asking how life began. Go out and shoot it. Shoot a lot of different brands to see what the gun likes or disliked, if any. Don't be afraid to send it back to manufacture if it doesn't seem to be performing properly. Have fun.
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WalkingWolf
Regular Member
There is a system that works for many semi auto owners. Shoot it!
Now before shooting I work the gun a little. I start by locking the slide to the rear, loading the mags full, leave them sit for at least a weak. In between that period while sitting watching TV, or watching the sunset rack the slide repeatedly. Don't forget also to clean, and lube the gun when you first get it. The problem with Kimbers is that they are tighter than milspec, while many think this is optimum it tends in some cases to lead to problems. If that is the case with yours then keep shooting it until the gun runs, that may take several hundred rounds. I went with a milspec 1911, and never had a failure, or issue even with -P loads. I have also a Star Super A built in 1947 that rattles like an old barn door. Both my Star, and milspec 1911 are extremely accurate even though both are loose fitted guns. That is what JMB intended.
Now before shooting I work the gun a little. I start by locking the slide to the rear, loading the mags full, leave them sit for at least a weak. In between that period while sitting watching TV, or watching the sunset rack the slide repeatedly. Don't forget also to clean, and lube the gun when you first get it. The problem with Kimbers is that they are tighter than milspec, while many think this is optimum it tends in some cases to lead to problems. If that is the case with yours then keep shooting it until the gun runs, that may take several hundred rounds. I went with a milspec 1911, and never had a failure, or issue even with -P loads. I have also a Star Super A built in 1947 that rattles like an old barn door. Both my Star, and milspec 1911 are extremely accurate even though both are loose fitted guns. That is what JMB intended.
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BlondieLocks
New member
Thanks! I’ve wanted this gun for about 5 years, so I’m pretty excited.
color of law
Accomplished Advocate
Don't get to excited, that's when accidents happen.
BlondieLocks
New member
Lol... yeah... but I’m pretty psyched. I had an Ultra Carry II years ago, that I OC’d, when I lived in AZ. (Long story why I don’t have that Kimber anymore) So, I’m finally replacing it.
CJ4wd
Regular Member
If you are interested in testing the accuracy and reliability of your new gun, might I suggest a pattern for you?
Buy 50 rds. each of 2-4 different types of ammo from different makers but all at or near the same weight. Shoot 20-25 rds. of each type while swabbing out the barrel between different ammos. Shoot each batch of ammo from a freshly swabbed barrel as this keeps the possibility of dirt, powder residue, etc., from causing accuracy issues. ALSO, use a fresh target for each batch of ammo and mark the distance, ammo maker, & bullet weight on each.
CLEAN THE GUN THOROUGHLY.
After that series, get more ammo of a DIFFERENT weight (1st batch - ~158 gr. {.357 Mag} & 2nd batch ~125 gr.) and repeat the same tests WITH swabbing and check the differences between the heavy and light bullets.
Whatever you decide is the MOST accurate, use the rest for "practice" at the range.
JUST REMEMBER - breaking in the barrel and smoothing out any "rough spots" can take anywhere from 200 -1000 rds.
Good luck and have fun !
Buy 50 rds. each of 2-4 different types of ammo from different makers but all at or near the same weight. Shoot 20-25 rds. of each type while swabbing out the barrel between different ammos. Shoot each batch of ammo from a freshly swabbed barrel as this keeps the possibility of dirt, powder residue, etc., from causing accuracy issues. ALSO, use a fresh target for each batch of ammo and mark the distance, ammo maker, & bullet weight on each.
CLEAN THE GUN THOROUGHLY.
After that series, get more ammo of a DIFFERENT weight (1st batch - ~158 gr. {.357 Mag} & 2nd batch ~125 gr.) and repeat the same tests WITH swabbing and check the differences between the heavy and light bullets.
Whatever you decide is the MOST accurate, use the rest for "practice" at the range.
JUST REMEMBER - breaking in the barrel and smoothing out any "rough spots" can take anywhere from 200 -1000 rds.
Good luck and have fun !
BlondieLocks
New member
Thanks for the tips! I definitely will use them. I’m hoping to have a little time off in AZ, either over Christmas or maybe the first of the year. There’s a great little public range there off I-8!
since9
Campaign Veteran
I do the same thing with a brand new firearm that I do annually with my own firearm. The procedures and chemicals have changed over the years as I've learned new tips, tricks, and techniques, but the principle is the same:
1. Strip it bare
2. Grease it up
3. Wipe it down
4. Oil it up
5. Wipe it down
Let's take these one at a time:
1. Strip it bare: Check with your manufacturer on what products to use, but the goal here it to take it back down to the bare metal. A number of different chemicals, including oil and salt from people's hands, come into contact with your firearm before you walk out of the store.
I use brake cleaner (the non-liver-destroying kind). DO be very careful about any plastic inserts into the sights or anywhere else., and you can't use it on all firearms! I find it works just fine on mine.
Then, without any delay for oxidation...
2. Grease it up: I used to use Rusty Duck's spray-on grease. Small can, 120 wt, synthetic blue grease. Can't find the stuff any more.
These days, I just use fully synthetic waterproof wheel bearing grease, working a dab into all moving parts and on all surfaces. Heavy weight bearing and waterproof. Can't ask for much more than that.
Word of caution: Avoid greases with lithium, molybdenum, calcium sulphonate, petroleum, and other ingredients. We're just looking to coat all metal parts with pure synthetic grease. I use "Lucas Oil 10301 Heavy-Duty Wheel Bearing Grease." All the right stuff, none of the wrong stuff, safe for plastics (important for grips), and it's very long-lasting.
3. Wipe it down: After wiping it down thoroughly, I use high-pressure air to dig the rest out of the works and hard to reach places. Using air leaves a very thin film of grease.
4. Oil it up: Remington gun oil. Just a drop or two on all moving parts. Work the action and all moving parts several times. Swap the barrel thoroughly to remove any built-up grease.
5. Wipe it down: Again, but without the air this time.
Total time: About 30 minutes.
Throughout the year, between deep cleanings, I use Hobbs #9 to clean it after each firing, then Remington Gun Oil. I oil moving parts monthly with Remington Gun Oil.
1. Strip it bare
2. Grease it up
3. Wipe it down
4. Oil it up
5. Wipe it down
Let's take these one at a time:
1. Strip it bare: Check with your manufacturer on what products to use, but the goal here it to take it back down to the bare metal. A number of different chemicals, including oil and salt from people's hands, come into contact with your firearm before you walk out of the store.
I use brake cleaner (the non-liver-destroying kind). DO be very careful about any plastic inserts into the sights or anywhere else., and you can't use it on all firearms! I find it works just fine on mine.
Then, without any delay for oxidation...
2. Grease it up: I used to use Rusty Duck's spray-on grease. Small can, 120 wt, synthetic blue grease. Can't find the stuff any more.
These days, I just use fully synthetic waterproof wheel bearing grease, working a dab into all moving parts and on all surfaces. Heavy weight bearing and waterproof. Can't ask for much more than that.
Word of caution: Avoid greases with lithium, molybdenum, calcium sulphonate, petroleum, and other ingredients. We're just looking to coat all metal parts with pure synthetic grease. I use "Lucas Oil 10301 Heavy-Duty Wheel Bearing Grease." All the right stuff, none of the wrong stuff, safe for plastics (important for grips), and it's very long-lasting.
3. Wipe it down: After wiping it down thoroughly, I use high-pressure air to dig the rest out of the works and hard to reach places. Using air leaves a very thin film of grease.
4. Oil it up: Remington gun oil. Just a drop or two on all moving parts. Work the action and all moving parts several times. Swap the barrel thoroughly to remove any built-up grease.
5. Wipe it down: Again, but without the air this time.
Total time: About 30 minutes.
Throughout the year, between deep cleanings, I use Hobbs #9 to clean it after each firing, then Remington Gun Oil. I oil moving parts monthly with Remington Gun Oil.
Really since9...good heavens the when(s) and hows of cleaning firearms, both LG or handgun, are urban cleaning legends which are as notorious as those surrounding which handgun is better; or which caliber has the better stopping power; or even which is better ford or chevy or maybe, just maybe, dodge or... ad nauseam!
The concept is dependent of a myriad of factors, firearm going into sustained storage; type of ammunition used - hand loaded or commercial or high or low velocity or moly coated or copper clad; which cleaning supplies being used and today’s cleaners have substantially improved [brake fluid and wheel bearing grease - really!]; finally use of rods, bronze or nylon brushes, etc., normally used improperly; when all factors arebcombinednhas a very detrimental effect on the firearm’s longevity.
While some competitors still clean after < 20 shot, coupled with using bronze brushes end up replacing their barrels around the 500 rounds becase their firearm’s crown is nonexistent.
A great many competing shooters are discovering if they clean their competition handguns before their events that the muzzle reside build up during the competition affects their accuracy so must, during the event compensate, in their target acquisition and take time to “aim” instead of relying on strictly using muscle memory. So they clean, then run 40-60 rounds through their clean barrels to re-season the muzzle then use them for their event.
Milady, just do not use WD40 on the firearm
The concept is dependent of a myriad of factors, firearm going into sustained storage; type of ammunition used - hand loaded or commercial or high or low velocity or moly coated or copper clad; which cleaning supplies being used and today’s cleaners have substantially improved [brake fluid and wheel bearing grease - really!]; finally use of rods, bronze or nylon brushes, etc., normally used improperly; when all factors arebcombinednhas a very detrimental effect on the firearm’s longevity.
While some competitors still clean after < 20 shot, coupled with using bronze brushes end up replacing their barrels around the 500 rounds becase their firearm’s crown is nonexistent.
A great many competing shooters are discovering if they clean their competition handguns before their events that the muzzle reside build up during the competition affects their accuracy so must, during the event compensate, in their target acquisition and take time to “aim” instead of relying on strictly using muscle memory. So they clean, then run 40-60 rounds through their clean barrels to re-season the muzzle then use them for their event.
Milady, just do not use WD40 on the firearm
WalkingWolf
Regular Member
If the gun you purchase is a gun coated finish be very careful of solvents. A very tight gun like a Kimber will not run well on heavy oil or grease. A light coating of light weight motor oil for contact areas, and Johnson's Paste Wax on external surfaces. Both will last for years, and are inexpensive. As for solvent I find hot soapy water the best, alcohol for decreasing, and I have had very good luck with WD. But I use it for revolvers to remove moisture from the internals, and then it is blasted out with a compressor. Bear in mind that wood grips may be affected adversely by ANY solvent.
For a gun like a Glock a dab of Lucas oil treatment works as well as any thick gun lube. Again a quart will last a lifetime.
For a gun like a Glock a dab of Lucas oil treatment works as well as any thick gun lube. Again a quart will last a lifetime.
BlondieLocks
New member
Thanks for all the great feedback, guys, I really appreciate it. It looks like I will get a chance over Christmas to get to the public range in Casa Grande, of course, trucking routes and weather permitting!
golddigger14s
Activist Member
Over thinking.
Just shoot it!
Just shoot it!
since9
Campaign Veteran
Of the three firearms it was my pleasure to break in, none were ready to "just shoot it." All three required at the very least, a thorough oiling, wipe down, and Hoppe's #9 (or equivalent) scrub of the barrel and cylinders (for my revolver). In fact, one was dirty out of the package for having been test-fired but not cleaned! The first couple of swabs with Hoppe's came out dirty. Grr... Fortunately, a near microscopic examination of the barrel following cleaning revealed no pitting or other aberration caused by the residue being left in the barrel. If it had, I'd have taken it back.
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Firearms Iinstuctor
Regular Member
During my career as a police armorer I have seen hundreds of brand new firearms used for the first time.
We would recommend field strip wipe off excessive factory grease run a patch through the barrel lightly lube the necessary parts shoot.
I am sure some followed those instructions.
Most I am sure pulled them out of the box loaded them and shot them.
I don't think I could ever tell the difference.
Personally I field strip wipe off excessive factory grease run a patch through the barrel lightly lube the necessary parts shoot.
We would recommend field strip wipe off excessive factory grease run a patch through the barrel lightly lube the necessary parts shoot.
I am sure some followed those instructions.
Most I am sure pulled them out of the box loaded them and shot them.
I don't think I could ever tell the difference.
Personally I field strip wipe off excessive factory grease run a patch through the barrel lightly lube the necessary parts shoot.